Visiting the Caribbean Coast
Without hesitation I can say that the Caribbean side of Costa Rica is my favorite place in the whole country; more specifically, the sleepy beach town of Puerto Viejo. I began traveling there about 12 years ago when my family first up-and-moved here from rural Pennsylvania. Back then, Puerto Viejo was unpaved and had very little to offer in means of traditional organized tourism. Today is not the case! However, I should add that the area has not and hopefully will not become over run with tall towers and too much tourism. In fact, recently the town banned together with folks from all over the country to petition against a port opening there, which would have ruined the good vibes and laid back atmosphere, not to mention one of the largest coral reefs in the country.
One of the many reasons I like Puerto Viejo is for the amazing food. Expats from all over the world have moved here and opened up gourmet restaurants with affordable prices. My two favorites are Chili Rojo, which I believe is English owned and operated and offers up some of the best Thai infused food I’ve ever had. Their menu here is diverse and healthy and it’s so good for any time of day that it’s not just a dinner joint or lunch place.
My other favorite is the La Pecora Negra which is owned and operated by Italian chef, Ilario, who comes right over to your table and helps you figure out what you want to eat. His food is such a unique combination of seafood and Italian, unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced. For example, a great appetizer of his is the shrimp Carpaccio with star fruit, this blend of citrus and seafood is just divine. Also, his pumpkin and shrimp ravioli is to die for.
I should mention that THE breakfast place, in my opinion, is a small outdoor restaurant called Bread and Chocolate which is only open for breakfast and lunch. Here you can have huge oatmeal pancakes with honey, French toast made with homemade bread or sample any of their homemade chocolates. Their lunch menu is also great with hearty whole-grain sandwiches and soups such as cold gazpacho, refreshing on a hot day.
With that said, I can’t discredit the locally run joints such as Maxi’s in Manazillo where you can get the most delicious staple food of the Carribean: Fried Fish with Rice and Beans! Now, when you order this it won’t be the Gallo Pinto bean dish that is a staple in the rest of the country. Rice and Beans is rice and beans with a delicious coconut flavor as coconut milk is one of the main ingredients and is included in most dishes here.
I should mention that the waters of the Caribbean and the beaches are unlike anywhere else in the country; after all it is the Caribbean Ocean. I have seen the water here transparent turquoise at times and my favorite beaches barely have visitors! Once inside Manzanillo National Park you can pass an afternoon in tide pools created by the volcanic rocks, which look much like black coral. Here you are protected from the larger waves at other nearby beaches like Punta Uva, known as the surfing beach of the area.
The final reason why I think Puerto Viejo and the Caribbean side rock is overwhelmingly the people and attitude of living there. It’s so laid back and friendly that I can understand how vacationers turn into locals here.
