Located just 15 miles north of Panama City, Soberania National Park is 48,287 acres of protected rainforest. Offering some of the most accessible (not to mention close to the city) outdoor recreational opportunities in Panama, this national park provides ample opportunity for wildlife sightings and also plays an intricate role in the function of the Panama Canal and the protection of its surrounding habitats and wildlife.

Established in 1980, Soberania National Park is part of the protected areas corridor that runs along the Eastern border of the Canal. This protected area including Soberania, Parque Camino de Cruces and Parque Natural Metropolitano, ensures the efficiency of the Panama Canal (which requires large quantities of water) and guarantees the uninterrupted movement of wildlife.

This safe movement of passage is especially important for birds. Panama has long been known as a birders paradise. Boasting 940 avion species, Panama is considered one of the worlds best birding sites. The Panama Canal represents one of the top migratory passages for birds in the western hemisphere, and the protected areas corridor ensures the safety and protection of this unique ecosystem.

Aside from being an ecological safe haven, Soberania National Park is home to great hiking trails and wildlife sightings. The most popular of these trails is Pipeline Road. This flat 17-mile “road” provides incredible opportunities for wildlife sightings. Over 380 species of birds have been observed and it is not uncommon to see monkeys, slothes and the occasional reptile. There are also numerous other trails in the park ranging from short and quick to all-day hikes. 6.2 miles of the historic Camino de Cruces is located in the park providing a great hike and also a bit of history. The trail was constructed in the 16^th century by the Spanish and was used to transfer merchandise and gold between the two oceans. Ruins of an old village are still present on this trail making a great resting point during the hike.

Located along Pipeline Road is the newly constructed Panama Rainforest Discovery Center. This is a great place to stop to get some information and also to retrieve a map of Soberania National Park and its trails. The Discovery Center has access to some interesting trails, however they are charging 15$ per person to use them. If you think this price is as outrageous as I do, skip their trails and forge out to the other free hikes the park has to offer.

The idea of Isla Coiba is something created in fiction. A 500 square kilometer island, surrounded by one of the largest coral reefs on the Pacific coast of the Americas with an ecosystem comparable to the Galapagos, and the location of a former no-cell penal colony make this island an adventurer’s dream.

Located 20km off the Pacific coast of Veraguas, Coiba was established as a penal colony in 1912. The island’s dense jungles and shark infested waters made escape impossible allowing prisoners full access to the 4 camps, with the prison guards locking themselves into cells each night for their own protection. The events that transpired on the penal colony are a bit of a ghost story with tales of murder and physical evidence of sites with unmarked graves.

Coiba’s reputation as a place to be avoided consequently kept this ecological gem in an almost pristine state. In 1991, the Panamanian government designated the island and its surrounding waters a national park and in 2005 Unesco declared Parque Nacional Cioba a world heritage site. As of April 2009, only 4 prisoners remain on the island, serving out the rest of their sentences showing tourists around one of the old prison camps and selling jewelry to support their families back on the mainland.

Today, Isla Coiba might be Panama’s best-kept secret. The island is home to 40 species of mammals and over 150 different bird species. The famous fer-de-lance snake can be found on the island along with some large crocodiles, one of which lives in the lagoon behind the ANAM camp where you lodge, and is lovingly (and scarily) named Tito.

Despite Coiba’s rich terrestrial population, the undisputed stars of this ecosystem are found in the pristine waters surrounding the island. Dolphins, humpback and killer whales can be seen in the waters along with large schools of fish, turtles and rays. As mentioned above, shark encounters are almost a sure thing. Most sightings are of unassuming white and black tip sharks, but encounters with hammerheads and whale sharks are not uncommon. Scuba diving in Coiba is suppose to be out-of-this-world, but simple snorkeling will still put you up close and personal with some curious underwater creatures.

Staying on Coiba takes an adventurous spirit. The only lodging is the ANAM station located in one of the old prison camps. The “barracks” have shared beds with electricity, bathrooms and A/C that only work from 6 pm –2 am. Mosquitos and Chitres (sand fleas) are out and about after sunset, and all food and drinks (minus water) needs to be brought from the mainland. Despite these “inconveniences,” the experience on the island is unforgettable, and with the right guide, your days are filled with white sand deserted beaches and wildlife encounters that will take your breath away.

Panama City is not exactly a fitness buff’s ideal city. With the heavy traffic, lack of sidewalks or bike lanes and potholes in the streets, most people choose to bite the bullet and join a gym. Despite all these setbacks, Panama does have some wonderful city escapes where a person can still get out and enjoy the scenery and work up a sweat. Here are my top 5 favorite places to get outside in Panama, in no particular order.

1.) Cinta Costera

This new waterside “boardwalk” opened in June 2009 parallel to Panama’s infamous Balboa Avenue. Beginning in Punta Paitilla, across from Multi Centro, Cinta Costera runs along the bay to Casco Viejo. Distancing at about 3 kilometers (one way), this boardwalk provides bike and walk lanes, park benches and lit basketball and soccer courts. There are plenty of parking areas that can be accessed from Balboa Avenue or the new road running through the park. Each parking area is equipped with a pedestrian overpass allowing safe passage to the paths.

Pros: central location, public bathrooms, spectacular city and ocean views

Cons: lack of shade, heavy traffic on the nearby roads

2.) Parque Omar

Parque Omar is an oasis in a busy city. Located off of Via Porras in the neighborhood of San Francisco, this park provides about a 5 kilometer loop though gentle hills and large sprawling trees. A favorite spot for families and dogs, Parque Omar is a Panama staple for a great place to enjoy some outdoor fun. The park provides parking and is also home to the impressive city library.

Pros: central location, ample shade, facilities

Cons: heavy traffic can make this park a pain to access unless living in the neighborhood

3.) The Amador Causeway

Home to numerous bars and restaurants this palm tree lined calzada connects four small islands of Naos, Culebra, Perico and Flamenco to the mainland. Located at the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal, the causeway provides well-maintained lawns, benches and walking paths. Cool ocean breezes and spectacular views of the city and boats waiting to go through the canal make this an almost unbeatable destination for casual strolls or a pleasant run. If you are interested in exploring the causeway on wheels, Biciletas Rali rents bikes and in-line skates by the hour.

Pros: scenic, shaded, lots of parking, plenty of places to grab a drink or a bite to eat

Cons: heavy traffic on Saturdays, outside of the city center

4.) Parque Metropolitano

Located on the city limits, this national park is a must for visitors and residents alike. Home to some impressive wildlife including monkeys, slothes, deer and uncountable birds, walking through the park is an unforgettable nature experience in the backyard of the city. The park has a few different short loops with the most popular climbing slowly up to a magnificent lookout, which gives views of Panama’s impressive skyline, the Panama Canal and the former Canal Zone.

Pros: wildlife spotting, incredible views, plenty of shade

Cons: a 2$ entry fee

5.) La Ciudad del Saber/Clayton

Located in the former Canal Zone, this neighborhood is home to soccer fields, baseball fields and plenty of open space to enjoy. With little traffic and only 10 minutes outside the city, the tranquility of this area is a great place to explore either walking or running. Clayton is also home to a nice, public, outdoor pool that costs 2$ for non-residents.

Pros: peaceful, shaded, soccer and baseball fields

Cons: mosquitoes, a bit of a commute from the city center

Panama has three different border crossings in and out of Costa Rica: Paso Canoas, Rio Sereno (both on the Pacific side) and Sixaola/Guabito (on the Caribbean). Crossing the border by bus or foot is a relative hassle-free experience, although certain crossings are known to be quicker and more laid back than others.

The most traveled and most chaotic entry and exit point is the border town of Paso Canoas. Located on the Inter-American highway, this crossing is used by all major bus companies traveling from Panama City, Panama to San Jose, Costa Rica and vice versus. It is the most direct access point of the two countries and consequently the most hectic.  There are a couple of key points to know when using this border crossing to help a.) make sure you actually get an entry stamp into the respective country and b.) save you some unnecessary hassle and time.

It is completely possible to pass across the border of Costa Rica and Panama without having any stops or knowledge of this fact. There is no fence or security checking passports at the border; however, a few kilometers into each country, expect to be stopped by security roadblocks to ensure each traveler has the appropriate stamps from each country. The immigration buildings for Panama and Costa Rica are about 300 meters apart on the Inter-American highway through Paso Canoas. It is necessary to obtain an exit stamp from whichever country you are leaving prior to going through immigrations to the entry country. A tourist card of 5$ is needed for travelers entering Panama and it is essential that a full 72 hours (starting the day after crossing the border) have passed since leaving Panama or Costa Rica before re-entering.

If you are traveling with a major bus company like Tica Bus, expect 2-3 hours at the border. Often there is one person working both the exit and entry windows and the tour buses usually arrive at the same time making the lines quite long. If traveling by local bus, try to plan your arrival to the border at a different time than the tour buses. This will alleviate the lines and make the border crossing a 10-minute adventure. There are local buses waiting on both sides of the border leaving frequently to various stops including Panama City and San Jose. Although both countries say that a proof of exit is needed before entering, Panama seems to be the only country enforcing this rule. If you do not have a plane ticket leaving from Panama City or a roundtrip bus ticket back to Costa Rica, immigrations will not stamp your passport. Tracopa sells open-date tickets from David, Panama to San Jose, Costa Rica for 15$ in their office in Paso Canoas. This ticket will suffice as proof of exit.

The next most common border crossing is Sixaola/Guabito on the Caribbean. Like most aspects of life on the Caribbean, this exit or entry point is known for its ease and hassle-free travel. Expect no lines at the Rio Sereno crossing, but know that it is a little of the beaten path so access to other destinations may be limited once crossing into either country.

Panama approved the FTA soon after its proposal on July 11, 2007 under President Martin Torrijos. President Bush faced the opposition of a Democratic majority Congress and was never able to ratify the agreement. There are still pending issues regarding labor and tax secrecy laws in Panama, which both Torrijos and President-elect Ricardo Martinelli have showed interest in cooperating with, to an extent.

Obama’s administration has flip-flopped twice on the matter after declarations in his campaign that he opposes bilateral trade agreements like CAFTA and NAFTA due to environmental, pharmaceutical and labor issues, among others. Despite the fact that the pending FTAs with Panama, Colombia and South Korea follow the basic structure of NAFTA, Obama later considered passing the Panama FTA a top priority in March, which would pave the way for the approval of the other two. However, facing the same opposition from labor parties and his own Democratic party, the president decided to shelf the issue to rethink its framework.

Opposition leaders claim that the FTA would threaten domestic farmers and jobs and would open up the private sector to corruption thanks to Panama’s lack of banking transparency laws. The FTA is set to benefit big business in the states and proponents argue that Panama already enjoys duty-free status on nearly 90% of its exports to the United States thanks to the Caribbean Basin Initiative the was passed in 1984, so the treaty would serve to level the playing field and there would be no new consequence for U.S. jobs.

With Panama’s canal expansion project underway, the treaty would be more of a symbolic commercial alliance with one of the world’s most important shipping lanes, paving the way for the U.S. to supply machinery and materials for the multi-billion dollar project.

The ACP extended its deadline for choosing which private company will be in charge of the construction of the new locks from December 2008 to the end of this month. The high profile construction contract is being sought by three corporate alliances, Bechtel Corp. (which is backed by Japanese companies Taisei Corp. and Mitsubishi Corp.), Grupo ACS of Spain and another consortium formed by Sacyr Vallehermoso of Spain and Impregilo of Italy.

On top of the multi-billion dollar project – one of the largest in history – and the fame and respect that will come with taking on such a massive project, the winning bidder will also receive a $50 million bonus should they complete the project in 2014, in time for the 100 year anniversary of the construction of the canal.

The construction of the locks is expected to take five years and generate 5,000 jobs, while the entire project is expected to employee from 35,000 to 40,000 people during the expansion years, according to the ACP. However, the larger picture, according to the canal’s biggest proponent, President Martin Torrijos, is the financial wealth that the expansion will bring to the country in the medium and long term. Despite these promises, Panama’s large and vocal construction worker’s union, SUNTRAC , is against the canal expansion. They warn that a large portion of the jobs required are for contractors and engineers that will be hired from abroad and that the debt incurred will affect the country’s future spending power on public works projects as canal income will go directly into paying the billions of dollars of debt.

The ACP will receive a total of $2.3 billion worth of loans from five international lenders and expect to pay off the rest of the contract from canal revenue. President Martin Torrijos, who formally proposed the expansion, said he foresees the national poverty level dropping from 30% to 8% thanks to the doubled capacity of the shipping route and hopes that the economic growth will propel Panama to the status of a first world country.

Once the canal expansion project was approved by the government in 2006, the plan went to a national referendum as required by the Panamanian constitution, where it was unanimously approved.

Global Impact

This 5-year mega project is expected to have a large ripple effect throughout the hemisphere, altering global shipping routes and securing the canal’s global competitiveness through 2025 and beyond. Currently, the two largest competing shipping routes to move goods from Asia to the Atlantic are the Suez Canal route and sending goods to California where they are shipped across the United States by rail. In southern California and estimated ½ million people are employed in global shipping as 70% of east coast-bound Asian imports are unloaded in Los Angeles and shipped across the states. While railways are expected to take the biggest hit, large ports are taking a proactive approach and starting their own multimillion dollar projects to improve their cargo and ship capacity. The Suez canal is also in the process of planning its own expansion to allow for the post-Panamax megaships.

One aspect of the project that may balance the effect the canal has on its competition is an expected hike in toll rates of up to 100%, which may deter shipping companies from making the switch. Panama is still not the only one set to gain from the expansion. East coast ports are already working to enlarge their ship capacity to create attractive unloading options for the new canal traffic. In fact, the Maryland Port Administration has already signed a deal with the ACP to promote passing ships to visit Baltimore and other east coast ports. Baltimore, which is one of just two east coast ports with a 50-foot channel, is already working on plans to be able to accommodate an increase of traffic once the expansion project has been completed.

Martinelli is a businessman turned politician, and sits as chairman of the board of Panama’s Super 99 grocery store chain as well as two other companies and is on the board of at least eight other companies. His government career began in 1994 when he served as Director of Social Security, later becoming the Minister for Canal Affairs.

His first try at presidency was actually in 2004 when his relatively new party was only able to turn up 5% of the popular vote. This year, after $35 million in campaign spending, he was the favored candidate going into the elections with Obama-echoing promises for change. Among his campaign promises, Martinelli said he would fight political corruption and violent crime. He is also for the proposed free trade agreement with the United States, which is currently stalled in the U.S. Congress as well as a modernized transportation system including a metro for Panama City.

Canadian Embassy in Panama
World Trade Center, First Floor
Calle 53E, Marbella, Galeria Comercial
Panama City
Phone: (507) 294-2500
Fax: (507) 294-2514
http://www.panama.gc.ca
panam@international.gc.ca
Open: Monday - Friday: 8:30 a.m. - 1:00 p.m.

British Embassy in Panama
MMG Tower
Calle 53
Apartado/PO Box number 0816-07946
Panama City
Phone: (507) 269 0866
Fax: (507) 223 0730
http://www.britishembassy.gov.uk/panama
britemb@cwpanama.net
Open: (Local Time = GMT - 5 hours) Mon-Thurs: 7:30 a.m. - 1 p.m. / 2 p.m. - 4:30 p.m.
Fri: 7:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m.

U.S. Embassy in Panama
Avenida Balboa and Calle 37
Apartado Postal 6959
Panama City
Phone: (507) 207-7000
http://panama.usembassy.gov/
PanamaWeb@state.gov
Open: 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m

Honorary Consul of Ireland in Panama
Bank Boston Building
14th Floor
P.O. Box 1774
Zona 9A
Panama City
Phone: (507) 264-6633
Fax: (507) 264-0269
irishconspma@online.ie

Embassy of Spain in Panama
Seat of Belisario Clubs, between Av. Peru and 33 Calle To-Panama
Panama City
Phone: (507) 227-5122 / 227-5472 / 227-5748
Fax: (507) 227-6284 / (507) 227-4926
embesppa@correo.mae.es

Consulate-General of Sweden in Panama
Ed.Galerias Balboa, lokal # 19
primer alto
Av. Balboa y Calle Aquilino de la Guardia
Panama City
Phone: (507) 264-3748
Fax: (507) 264-6358
conswed@cwpanama.net
Open: Monday-Friday 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Embassy of Venezuela in Panama
Torre HSBC, Piso 5, Avenida Samuel Lewis
Panama City
Phone: (507) 269-1244 or 269-1014

Italian Embassy in Panama send edits
Avenida Balboa - Torre BBVA - Piso 25
Panama City
Phone: (507) 225-8948 or 225-8949
Fax: (507) 227-4906
http://www.ambpanama.esteri.it
ambpana.mail@esteri.it

Embassy of Colombia in Panama
World Trade Center Building
Office 1802,
Street 53 urbanizacion
Marbella, Panama City
Phone: (507) 264-9513/214-9704/264-9266
Fax: (507) 223-1134
http://www.embajadadecolombia.org.pa/
epanama@minrelext.gov.co